Ecuador- Chapter 4 - Peguche and Inti Raymi

After a day spent on a very enjoyable tour of the pueblos around Otavalo (which will not be illustrated here) Aurelia and I were both kinda pooped. However, being the trooper that she is, Aurelia suggested that we go visit the small town of Peguche which is a few minutes out of Otavalo.

Peguche is a town known for its weavings and other crafts and is mostly populated by indigenous Otavalenos.

So we hopped into a cab and after a pleasant conversation with the cabby on the virility enhancing effects of eating cui (cooked guinea pig) we arrived in Peguche in a light drizzle. As we stepped out of a cab we noticed that a group had gathered ahead of us. Most were dressed in traditional Otavenlos garb but a few, like the gentleman below, were more brightly dressed.


A moment later two large saints on platforms came out of a nearby house, someone lit of some fireworks, and the band struck up a one -two marching beat. The whole group then shared a few slugs of chicha (corn beer) and marched towards the center of town to celebrate the Festival of Inti Raymi (which was renamed by the Spanish as the Festival of San Pedro).

The procession moved through the narrow streets of Peguche, lighting fireworks and gathering followers. As it meandered through some back alleys we followed much of the crowd to the central plaza where stands had been erected. Soon the Saints and their attendants reappeared and marched through the plaza to the church. The dancers who accompanied the saints a stayed outside to entertain the crowd.

Children and non-costumed folk joined the masked and cross-dressed dancers. There's an entire Anthropology PhD dissertation in the photo below.

On the outskirts of the festivities were a bunch of kids playing a game where you pitch nickles onto small pictures framed with glass and tape. If your nickle fall on the tape you lose the nickle. If it falls on the image, you get to keep it. I managed to lose over fifty cents in less than a minute.


We left Peguche after an hour or so but were told that the festivities would go on for the next three days.

Next time....Cuenca and the Wedding!!!!

Ecuador-Chapter 3-Otavalo

Following our time in Quito, Aurelia and I headed north to the town of Otavalo. Known from pre-Inca times as center for fine textiles, Otavalo is now world renown for its textile market. It is also significant as the place where the Hidalgo family (Torco, Fidel, Sarah and Fausto) lived for many years and where Miguel Hidalgo got his start in jewelry making (yes, it's my blog and I'll crow if I want to). After an exciting bus trip, where the driver played chicken with another drive- clashing mirrors and some fine vistas (see below), we arrived in Otavalo.

Having spent about a year in Otavalo over seven visits I feel that this is one of my homes. Even after ten years away much seems the same. The central plaza is still full of teenagers smooching and old guys chtating to each other below whitewashed palms. The shoeshine army was in full force but business much have improved over the last decade as many sported cell phones.
Otavalo actually has two markets, the vegtable market and the more famous poncho market. Aurelia and I visited the food market on Friday and we walked among the stalls where I learned a lot of my spanish as I did the family shopping.


(Piggy having a bad day)

Saturday, poncho market day, was a typical andean day, the sun shining bright and hot. You can feel little atmosphere is between you and the sun. Hats and sunscreen are a must. We spent the morning moving among the many stalls that fill the large plaza and run down most of the streets nearby. Everyone should expect indigenous cotton garb as holiday gifts for year to come.


(Gold filled glass beads worn by the Otavalenas)

(Shaved ice-dulce!)

Next time...The festival of San Pedro or Aurelia and Miguel stumble upon a very cool event.